Sunday, November 23, 2014

Alpinepalooza.

So uh, Instagram. Instagram. Instagram. I have one now.


My face when Instagram.  

When it comes to Instagram, I've really been behind the insta-curve as I just started using it.


Go and hide Maurice, she's breaking out the bad puns again.

A few posts ago I mentioned that I have an account on Shutterfly for all the photos I've been taking. But there's not much outside views in terms of traffic.


As many views as there are unbroken relationships here..

So Instagramming has been a new, gratifying experience as I've been able to cast out to a bigger pond. Saying this, I'm now pleased to offer yet another medium of my travels until I come up with another harebrained scheme to showcase the grand tour.

My Instagram.You can view it on your computer too... did I mention I was behind the times?

Oops, I'm supposed to writing about my last destination. Get back on track.


Even Instagram.

So after Budapest, it back to the Balkans. Now Croatia. You might know of this country. Perhaps. And assuming this, what's the first thing that comes to mind?

http://www.crobeaches.com/en/
Croatia's famous coast!

So we didn't go anywhere near the coast.

But I did eat this tasty fisWAIT THAT' S A TROUT

Yeah, when initially mapping this whole GO EVERYWHERE AND SEE THE WORLD trip, Croatia was on my radar to see the coast. But going to the famous Dubrovnik (Google it) was way the hell off from Budapest to end up in Italy nicely, so....

Zagreb was answer.

And figured sure, I wouldn't see Dubrovnik (seriously, Google it) but certainly getting to the somewhere on the coast wouldn't be so hard as a day-trip or something?

Shoulda made a left at Alba-a-Turkey. I'll be here all night.

But it wasn't meant to be.

More like, because castle.

Zagreb is the Capital of Croatia, and well, it's a smaller city. Most people visit Zagreb on their way to the coast, so it's fairly touristed as a result. In my opinion, Zagreb was like Geneva: great for a day, but I would be bored more than that.

But it was a good day.

But what people don't get too often is into the area around Zagreb, aka Northern Croatia. Mostly (with exception of locals and savvy travelers) this is still under the radar, as in the summer everyone beelines for the coast, and in the wintertime, no one's here.

But not off the charts for long.

We visited the beautiful castle Trakoscan not 45 minutes outta the city-limits, and then it was all hello Alpine.


It was a castle on a lake. I mean come on. How is this missed at all.

This is the game where we try to find a bad angle.

And our local tour guide was very friendly too. He particularly took a shining to Mom.



Dances with cats.

He even escorted us most of the way.

Am I in a Hayao Miyazaki movie?

Another 45 minutes took us to nearby baroque town Varazdin, which has been restored over the years to maintain its Austro-Hungarian style. Small and charming come to mind to describe this town.

And you know, they say if it ain't baroque don't fix-Wait ...they did fix it.  
DARN IT I WAS SAVING THAT PUN.

Its northwestern neighbor, Ljubljana, Slovenia, rocked the baroque style as well.

I can't use that pun now. Help.

But Ljubljana was not to be outdone. It has its art nouveau- fetchingly showcased on what might be my favorite landmark....


DRAGON BRIDGE RARRRRRRRR!!!!

Despite Yugoslavia, World Wars, rulers from different Empires and states, Croatia and Slovenia both have a timeless quality to them. They come by it honestly. 

One example: In the US, farmer's markets have mostly been a  'move to green' movement. Now a farmer's market here isn't a movement. Nor is it 're-discovering their roots'. It's a way of life. It's not new or reinvented. It's always been here.


And it's also every day save Sunday. Get on it America.

Now timeless and preserved are both wonderful journalism words for the wonder that is nearby Castle Bled and Lake Bled, Slovenia. An icon of this country, and rightfully so. It's peaceful, picturesque, and crawling with buses and tourists in the summer.

Dear calendar thank you for being November.



                                                                                              Some day my prince ew dragon will come. 

And a traditional boat ride out to Bled Island? Well, yeah. Got to do it.


 The castle AUUGHHHH...our quest is at an end. Ok a Monty Python reference. My failed
 punning has been recovered.

Both of these locations were quiet and scarce of tourists (mind the few we bumped into around Bled) but this has been consistent since departing Budapest. Our hostels in both Zagreb and Ljubljana were empty. While the hostel scene could be improved (you know, cultural exchange, beyond borders, etc, etc), the travel portion has paid off dividends. No crowds and no heat. The weather has been clear, crisp, and for the most part, perfect, save the one or two rainy days.

The only reason I could see coming this region in the summer and braving the crowds would be to swim Lake Bled. 



Oh and to see the coast. 

.......

Meh.




Saturday, November 15, 2014

Belgrade and Budapest; a tale of Danube Cities.

KAPOW!!! This post...is electrifying!

So welcome back to yet another riveting, edge-of-your-seat, mind-blowing experience of reading a travel blog written by a twenty something female.

Yeah, it's pretty dangerous being a travel blogger.  Look how dangerous those leaves are. Pointy razor sharp leave-

Today's post will be a tale of two cities.



United by the the Danube.


And yet about as different as you can get in terms of neighbors.

They are the beautiful, boisterous cities of Belgrade and Budapest.

Belgrade, capital of Serbia, the pinnacle of what I define as Eastern Europe.


This guy on his horse does not agree with this statement.

The country's history is quite tumultuous. Sure, everyone's got their battles and occupations by other countries, as really, you can't be a European nation without em.


HEY NICE COUNTRY, OH ITS MINE NOW. AND HAVE SOME (INSERT YOUR RELIGION OF CHOICE) TOO.

Being sandwiched between the Ottoman-Turks, the Austrian-Hungarians, and everybody else that was dinking around for the last coupla' centuries in central Europe, poor Serbia was basically everyone's target. So their country's history is shaped by what war they were involved in.


I think we're gonna need a bigger moat.

Nor were they too successful keeping folks out. They built forts, they barricaded castles, and yet continually got the pointy end of the spear. Which was good in terms of foods, which have influences in everything from Turkish to European.



But pretty bad for the psyche.


Serbia has a jaded view of the world, and rightfully so- 15 years ago was their last squabble, which you may remember, dominated American televisions. Yeah, you probably thought it before I typed it, but in the off chance you didn't, it was Kosovo.


Cripes.

Belgrade endured several weeks of UN air strikes. What was interesting was in how people saw it: Some Serbs saw it as days of terror, and some saw it as exciting as a snow-day: I mean, no school for several weeks, because, well, air strikes.


I guess it's an age-test.

For all their international strife, they are just as ready to dish as to take. Something as simple as a soccer futbol match spoke volumes about the Serbian mindset.


Oh you blow vuvuzelas at your match? We do FREAKIN' FIREWORKS.

There was a strong presence of riot police at the match, and while there wasn't a rumble, their appearance  was warranted. Not even a month ago a soccer match ended when fans and players brawled against each other in game against Albania, where divisive politics were made real on the pitch.


Look it up on Google.

But for their fiery passion, Serbians are as welcoming as can be. They're wanting to leave behind the problems of the past and make themselves anew. There's pride in their ancient past, and in their present: in the summer, if you didn't know, Belgrade is an international party destination.


Party boats. Party Boats everywhere.

 They love to speak their minds and share their culture, so if you're a good listener, you'll be more than welcome.


Also, expect some particularly strong homemade liquor.

I really liked Belgrade. There's something here that wanted me to stay longer. A vibe. It's a city made for walking, whether along the banks of the Danube or in their Bohemian quarter. It was modern and morose. I want to see more of this country.


shout-out to seeing more fascinating COMMUNIST BUILDINGS.

Now to its northern neighbor, Budapest, Hungary, different would be an understatement.
While connected on the Danube as well, this city was clearly Western Europe dominated. Gone were the towering Orthodox Churches. We were back to Cathedrals.


'Allo!

What kinda sucked was in Romania, Bulgaria, and Serbia, they were on their own currencies, (no EU status) I was ready for some Euros, a currency I can underestimate more clearly.


NOOOOOO!

Hungary's still on their own money, so yeah. No Euros. Ffff.


At least you have good wine.

Now one thing Hungary shares with Serbia is a communist past. However, that's about where it ends. Serbia today sees communism as a failed system, yet through a more rosey perspective. Hungary downright views communism as fondly as, well, this guy:


Ronald Reagen. In Hungary. No kidding.

But as Hungary went down with the Axis Powers in World War 2, they received the pointy end of the stick with their Soviet occupation.  Luckily for Hungary, they managed to keep their capital city relatively together, and were able to restore their many buildings back  to their glory once they regained independence.


To see Budapest is to be continuously looking up.

Budapest is two cities really, 
Buda is one side.
Pest is another.





And each one's got its own motif.

Buda's got your fancy buildings and posh shops:



Pest has your pests young people and nightlife, like the concept of Ruin Bars, where old buildings are made into trendy bars.


This screams garage sale, hipsters, and safety violation all in one.

But the Austrian-Hungarian Empire still is alive and well in its own ways:

Christmas Markets.



Symphonies and Operas.



And some rad buildings.


Nice castle there, buddy.

And Budapest is a major hub of cultural events, thanks to its neighbors and great location.
Great parks, scenic waterway, and natural spas, this is a city with style.



Though I'll disperse one myth before I end, since I was convinced this was truthiness:
Hungary not founded by the Huns. So disappointing. But they were united with Transylvania at one point, so....VAMPIRES.


In Budapest, there is a wonderful masquerade ball....oops, Van Helsing again.

Au revoir to the funky towns of Belgrade and Budapest. Next is Zagreb, Croatia and... Ljub..Ljool....Ljubljana, Slovenia. Cripes I can't type it, let alone say it.

It's back to the former Yugoslavia! Turkish coffee, I didn't miss you!